The First Adventure of the Costa Rica Backpacking Trail
18 days of pure adventure: that was the challenge awaiting us. Our goal, in addition to marking the first signs of the Costa Rica Trail, was to demonstrate that even solo hikers could traverse this route inspired by the famous Camino de Santiago.
We formed a unique team: a determined Panamanian, Marjorie, the first woman to complete the continuous route, Orlando, our experienced Panamanian guide, and I, all ready to face any challenges that arose. With backpacks on our shoulders, loaded with everything we needed and on a tight budget, we began our journey from Madre de Dios to Quepos.
Conchita helped us get to the starting point. Thanks to his experience guiding student groups, Orlando provided us with advice on the best camping spots. However, we soon discovered that our Panamanian friend had little in his backpack, but what surprises! We found several kilos of firewood and three kilos of peanut butter. After some laughter and adjustments to our gear, we set off toward the Escuela de Las Brisas.
The first days were challenging. We carried all our gear and food and decided to take an alternative route (at that time the official one) through Valle Escondido instead of following the official trail that passes through Tsiobata. The trek through indigenous territory promised to be intense. As we progressed, Bartolomeo's shoes began to fail, which led Orlando and a local indigenous person to seek out some rubber boots for him. The comfort of those boots wasn’t the best, which reflected in our pace.
We camped in Guayabal, surrounded by little pigs, and then in Valle Escondido, until we reached the village of Bajo Pacuare, where we slept on the floor of an evangelical church. The variety of places where we spent the night became one of the most memorable aspects of the adventure: from the homes of kind locals to an abandoned pool in Atirro.
As the days went by, our Panamanian companion faced more difficulties in keeping pace, leading to frustration in the group. It was at the junction where we decided to move ahead to rest and lighten our loads. While we enjoyed coffee and cultivated patience, we savored the essence of hiking.
Finally, upon reaching Nápoles, I had to say goodbye to guide another area. My brave companions continued, and Marjorie took charge of the final marking of the trail. If you ever walk this route and come across a painted little bird or a red-and-white stripe, there will be the story of our first marking, encapsulated in those little details.
I have total admiration for Bartolomeo, who, despite blisters and difficulties, managed to complete the route. The first and only (as far as I know) Panamanian to have traversed this journey!
As Ibn Battuta said, “Traveling leaves you speechless… and then turns you into a storyteller.” And we certainly have stories to tell. Until the next adventure!
